First a joke: “The history books say that the Portuguese discovered Búzios in the 16th century, but in fact it was discovered by the French explorer Brigitte Bardot in 1964.” Armação de Búzios (its official name) was an isolated fishing village when Bardot fled there from the paparazzi in Rio de Janeiro. Her visit sparked a juggernaut of tourism development that transformed the little town into the St. Tropez of South America. A better comparison perhaps would be with the Spanish island Ibiza, but in any case the ambiance on this amoeba-shaped peninsula is more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than anywhere else in Brazil. A babble of languages float through the air. Many commercial establishments are owned by expatriates, and during peak periods prices approach continental levels. Of course there are plenty of Brazilians sprinkled among the foreigners. They include many of Rio de Janeiro’s rich and/or famous; soccer stars, actors and other social-column regulars keep beach houses in Búzios. Despite overdevelopment that even patron saint Bardot lamented in her autobiography, Búzios’ officials have avoided the worst sins committed elsewhere – for instance, they haven’t authorized high-rise hotels smack dab on the sand. If cosmopolitan, Búzios has remained relatively small and definitely exclusive.
Búzios Neighborhoods and Beaches
With a permanent population of about 20,000, Búzios is too small for distinct neighborhoods. However it contains a clearly defined shopping and nightlife area, and an informal process of natural selection has turned each beach into a hangout for a certain crowd. There are beaches for everyone: singles, yuppies, teenagers, couples, hippies, surfers and nudists – just to mention a few. During summer holidays the population swells by an estimated 50,000-150,000. The city has been investing in sanitation and other basic services, but a few years ago the mayor went on television to ask people to stay away.
Centro – The central commercial district is contained mostly on two streets. With its cobblestone pavement, the Rua das Pedras (Street of Stones) is home to high-end fashion boutiques, upscale restaurants and bars, and the inevitable street vendors. Nightlife has spilled over to the adjacent Orla Bardot, which features of bronze statue of BB herself sitting on a bench contemplating the sea. When the partying gets in gear, parking is scarce.
Geribá Beach – Four kilometers long, this is the biggest beach in Búzios. Surfers and celebrities make up part of the young crowd that begins partying in the afternoon. A kiosk called Fishbone blares out electronic music as freelance parking attendants “rent” spaces on the street. People don’t wear much clothing, but the bikinis, speedos and accessories that adorn the buffed bodies spell high fashion. The sand – as flat and hard as the abs - is great for running and soccer. There are a slew of B&Bs nearby.
Ferradura Beach – With good conditions for water skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling and wakeboarding, this beach attracts an active crowd and competes with Geribá in the “most popular” category. Ferradura means “horseshoe,” and the coastline here does in fact make a U-shape. The geography is best viewed from a lookout point on high ground on the path to nearby Forno Beach. Ferradura has been nicknamed “the Beverly Hills of Búzios” because of the expensive beach houses owned by rich and famous Brazilians.
José Gonçalves Beach and the Serra das Emergências – This is the place for ecotourists. The Búzios-Atlantic Forest Ecological Institute offers guided tours of the Emergências Nature Reserve, home to abundant plant and animal life, including the endangered Golden Lion Tamarin. The Serra das Emergências is a modest coastal mountain range from which hang gliders take off. There are mountain bike trails through the serra. Emergências Nature Reserve: Estrada Velha de Búzios (Old Búzios Road), no number (Km 5). Tel: +55(22) 2623-2200 - +55(22) 2623-2446.
Olho de Boi – Another kind of nature can be viewed at Olho de Boi (Cattle Eye). This hard-to-reach enclave has become a de facto nude beach, popular with straight couples and gay men. There are no kiosks or roaming vendors, so “bring your own” is the rule here.
Tartaruga Beach – Another beach with beautiful people and happening kiosks. However the kiosks are concentrated at one end of the beach, so you can sun bathe in peace if that’s your pleasure. Natural rock pools offer bathing without the waves, and there are coral reefs for scuba divers. Tartaruga means “turtle” and once upon a time marine turtles laid their eggs here. The tourists may have scared them off, but a preservation group, the Tamar Project, has a base further up the coast in Campos de Goytacazes that monitors and protects other spawning areas.
João Fernandes Beach – Rich Argentineans usually dominate the landscape at Buzios´ most upscale and perhaps most “European” beach, but Brazilian families sometimes outnumber their southern rivals during the summer holidays. Several kiosks serve the customary caipirinhas, beer and fried squid, but one includes Chilean and Argentinean wine on the menu. Lunch costs as much as it would at a good restaurant downtown. The calm waters are good for kayaking and snorkeling.
Búzios Things to Do
Here’s what most people do in Búzios. They get up late, around 11 a.m., and have breakfast. Then they hit the beach for the afternoon, maybe partaking in water sports or a pick-up soccer game, but always having a couple of beers or caipirinhas and snacking on fried squid or shrimp at one of the numerous beachside kiosks. Then back to the hotel or B&B for a shower and maybe a nap. In the evening it is off to the Rua das Pedras for some window shopping and a drink at one of the bars. Then comes dinner at a restaurant in the downtown area. Then back to a bar and perhaps to a nightclub for some dancing. Late to bed – and of course late to rise the next day. Though most people don’t take advantage of them, there are other options – many of them nature related.
Búzios Trolley – If you don’t have a car, this two hour tour of 12 beaches and two vista points will give you a good overview. Passengers sit in on benches in the adapted bed of a truck. A roof keeps them in the shade. There are three departures daily and the price is about US$25. Juice, water, fruit and crackers are provided. Most hotels and B&Bs will help you reserve a seat. Avenida José Ribeiro Dantas, 550. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4733.
Búzios Golf Club & Resort – No internationally acclaimed resort town worth a hoot can be without its golf course, and Búzios is no exception. Claiming to be one of the best in Latin America, the course was designed by Pete and Perry Dye of Dye Designs in Colorado. The course spans out over 1,000,000 square meters of greenery, running through valleys and hills astride a series of lakes. The 17th hole includes a Dye-trademark island-green, and hole 18 is the most challenging. One day and seven-day package green fees are available to visitors. Telephone: +(55-22) 2629-1240.
Coastal Tour in a Native Fishing Boat – Leave the huddled masses to the schooners with their scripted itineraries. Hire a local fisherman to take you where you want to go on your own schedule. Most boats can be hired by the hour for as long as you want and leave from the Porto dos Pescadores at Armação Beach. Additional information by telephone: +(55-22) 2620-8020. Or make a reservation at the Colônia dos Pescadores, the fishermen’s cooperative, on the Rua das Pedras. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4515 or +(55-22) 9211-4723.
Tauá Ecological Reserve – This 100,000 square meter privately-owned and operated nature reserve has been reforested. It offers numerous walking trails and is rich in bromeliads: experts estimate that 40% of the 1,300 species of bromeliads in Brazil can be seen here. Wildlife includes raccoons, capuchin monkeys, agoutis and armadillos. Estrada Búzios-Cabo Frio, kilometer 5, Cabo Frio. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2200. Reservations for the Tauá Ecological Reserve by email.
Scuba Diving – One of the best spots is Âncora Island, about nine kilometers offshore. On average visibility is about 12 meters but can reach 25 during the summer. Only in May, when the winds pick up, is visibility sometimes a problem. Three leading companies offer lessons and outings: Casamar (Rua das Pedras, 242; Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2441; e-mail); Mar Azul (Rua das Pedras, 275 - loja 4; Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4354; e-mail) and True Blue (Rua Turibio de Farias 127; Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-6226; e-mail).
Búzios Hotels
Pousada Corsário Búzios – Located on Ossos Beach, five kilometers from the downtown nightlife – just close enough for comfort. There are 32 nicely appointed apartments, adult and kids swimming pools, a beauty farm, sauna and game room. Rua Agripino de Souza, 50. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4582.
Hotel Galápagos – Set above the Fernandinho Beach, this property offers 37 rooms, including two master suites. The Galápagos prides itself on its nice views, attractive architecture, the privacy of its guests, and top-notch service. The Galápagos is a member of the exclusive Roteiros de Charme, Brazil’s version of Relais & Châteaux. João Fernandinho Beach. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2245.
Pérola Búzios – This self-styled design hotel is set close to the hubbub of the Rua das Pedras nightlife - perhaps too close since the inauguration of the popular buy noisy discothèque Privilège. All 60 of the spacious rooms feature widescreen televisions and nine have private whirlpools. Use of a well-equipped gym and yoga classes are included in the rate. Av. José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 222. Telephone: +(55-22) 2620-8507.
Pousada Casas Brancas – Set atop Humaitá hill, with an impressive view of the bay and Ossos Beach, this boutique hotel boasts a multilingual staff and a refined yet laid-back atmosphere. The sunset as viewed from the pool is spectacular. Morro de Humaitá, 10. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1458.
Pousada Pedra da Laguna – On the exclusive Ferradura Beach, this pastel-painted inn resembles a villa. Ask for the room with the whirlpool on the veranda with the ocean view. Praia da Ferradura. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1965.
Our House – This small eight-room bed & breakfast bills itself as “the first establishment in the town of Búzios to offer hospitality exclusively geared towards the GLBT (gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender) community.” It is located on the fashionable Ferradura Beach. All rooms offer ocean views. Ferradura Beach. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1913.
Other hotels in Búzios
Budget Accommodations in Búzios
Búzios Restaurants
Sawasdee – This Thai place is the hands down consensus choice as the best restaurant in Búzios, independent of specialty. Seafood dominates the menu and is clearly the best choice. After a decade on the Orla Bardot, Sawasdee has opened a branch in Rio de Janeiro proper. Expensive. Avenida José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 422. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4644. Website:
Bar do Zé – The fare in this little place is contemporary fusion, featuring grouper with passion fruit sauce, cerviche and Brazilian rumpsteak with Thai sauces. The food is served at candlelit tables. Expensive. Orla Bardot, 382. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-4986.
Quintal – The waiting list is long for the private group dinners hosted by gourmet Nelson Ramos Filho, who has catered for Brazilian presidents. Groups are limited to 30 guests who distribute themselves among five tables on a deck with an ocean view. Nelsinho, as the chef and owner is known, might serve his “presidential gnocchi,” “Ramos cod fish,” or another of his contemporary inventions. Expensive. Estrada Ponta de Sapata, 208, Manguinhos. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1934.
Boom – Pay-by-weight buffets are popular throughout urban Brazil for quick and cheap lunches for executives and office workers on the go. In this spot with the funky design by architect Helio Pellegrino, they take the food up a notch. Rua Manoel Turíbio de Farias, 110. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-6254.
Brigitta’s – Brigitta Andes was born in the former Czechoslovakia and went at least half-way around the world before settling down in Búzios. The idiosyncratic menu includes shrimp, lobster, T-bone steaks and of course an authentic goulash. Moderately priced. Rua das Pedras, 131. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2940.
Cigalon – This French restaurant is owned by an Argentinean expat chef and has an Italian-tinge to its menu. The most French thing about it is the philosophy of using local ingredients. Tables with ocean or star-light views (at night, of course) are available. Expensive. Rua das Pedras, 199. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-0932.
Búzios Nightlife
Búzios is a true city of night. People rise late and remain in the bars and clubs until 3 a.m. or even later. If you plan to go out dancing, there’s not much point in arriving at the club before midnight. Nightlife is concentrated along the two adjacent main drags, Rua das Pedras and the Orla Bardot.
Chez Michou – Technically specialized in crepes, this place has been a hangout for the younger crowd for two decades. The music is loud and the clientele tanned and buffed. Avenida José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 90. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2169.
Patio Havana – There are five different environments: a Cuban-themed patio, a bistro with an ocean view, a cigar bar, a whisky bar with pool tables, and a wine tasting area. Live music nightly. Patio Havana is the anchor venue for the Búzios Jazz and Blues Festival in July. Rua das Pedras, 101, Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-2169.
Zapata – Opened in 1994, this Mexican-themed discothèque is the “old-timer” of the Búzios scene. Located on the Orla Bardot, just beyond the Rua das Pedras, capacity is 600. Be prepared for the line outside at peak times. Avenida José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 352. Telephone: +(55-22) 9205-2663. Website:
Privilège – Located on the Orla Bardot just steps away from the Rua das Pedras. Designed by Búzios’ architect of choice, Helio Pellegrino, this nightclub attracts celebrities, models, rich kids and others whose names frequently land in the social columns. With a capacity of 1,200, there’s room for some regular folks as well. There are occasional live shows by name acts. The music goes on until dawn. Avenida José Bento Ribeiro Dantas, 550. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-0150.
Guapo Loco – Mexican food in Brazil generally leaves much to be desired, but this place has been described as a “food bar.” Guapo Loco has created an ambiance that attracts the young and beautiful. The old location on the Rua das Pedras has closed down but the owners promise to reopen elsewhere.
Pacha Búzios – The globalization of hip chic continues with the announcement by the Ibiza discothèque Pacha that it plans to open a Búzios branch. The club’s opening date had yet to be announced in mid-2008, but it promised to be a big deal when it happens.
Gran Cine Bardot – In a town inspired by a film star, this is the only movie theater. The Gran Cine Bardot offers four screenings a day, with a mix of commercial movies and art films. Its adjacent café is a favorite hangout for intellectuals. Travessa dos Pescadores, 80. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1466.
Búzios Shopping
There is only place to shop in Búzios – the Rua das Pedras. Sharing the main business drag with bars and restaurants are fashion boutiques, crafts shops, gift shops, home furnishing shops and artist ateliers. Many are branches of stores you’ll find on the stylish Oscar Freire Street in São Paulo or in Ipanema in Rio de Janeiro.
Fashion – Lenny is for bikinis. Farm features snazzy designs for young women. Sandpiper means casual wear. Osklen is fancy faux-adventure. Richards aims to be stylish without devolving into trendy. Aqualung is an adventure fashion label that started in Búzios and now sports franchises all across Brazil. (The Aqualung Ecological Institute sponsors several important environmental projects, including the protection of endangered sharks.)
Crafts and Home Furnishings – Cachaça a Bordo sells items with marine motifs. Âmbar offers items chosen personally by owner Luiz Carlos Randon during his visits to India, Africa and Brazilian indigenous reservations. Arte Marinha features the work of artisans from the nearby town of Cabo Frio, again with marine themes as the focus. Edno Decorações sells rustic furniture.
Art – A dozen or so top-notch artists have set up shop in Búzios and sell their paintings and other work straight from their ateliers. Some can be found on Rua das Pedras, but a few others are scattered around other parts of downtown. Of special note are the paper maché sculptures of Ivonne R. (Travessa Sant'Anna, 32, at the end of Armação Beach. Telephone: +(55-22) 2623-1495.)
At the Beach – Itinerant vendors roam the beaches offering refreshments, trinkets and other wares. Many of them practice “triple-tier pricing.” Prices are unmarked and vary according to the customer: gringos (meaning all foreigners, including Argentineans) pay the most; Brazilians pay less, and “nice” Brazilians get a special discount.
Búzios Day Trips
Most of the places near Búzios offer similar attractions: sun, sand, nature and a bit of nightlife. Some of them are less expensive. Some are less raucous. Some are more relaxed. But if you wanted cheap or tranquil or down-to-earth, you wouldn’t have come to Búzios anyway, right? Still, if two dozen beaches and the boisterous nightlife aren’t enough to hold your attention, there are other places you can visit.
Barra de São João – This small village about 30 kilometers from Búzios is set on the banks of the clear, mangrove-lined São João River. Many of the houses date to the 17th century and are the same ones celebrated in the verses of homeboy poet Casimiro de Abreu (1839-1860).
Tamar Project– The excellent marine turtle preservation initiative maintains a base in the Campos Basin, about 190 kilometers north of Búzios. The Visitors Center displays models of the five species of marine turtle in Brazil, a tank with baby loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta), and explanatory posters. Farol de São Thomé, Campos de Goytacazes. Telephone: +(55-22) 2747-5939.
Scuba Diving in Arraial do Cabo – Nearly 40 kilometers from Búzios, this is the take-off point for Cabo Frio Island, the unofficial scuba diving capital of Brazil. Coastal currents change directions here – from north-south to west-east - and the deep waters of the Atlantic Ocean are channeled to the surface. As a result, the region is rich in marine species. Sand’Mar Náutica is the oldest scuba diving tour company in town. Rua Epitácio Pessoa, 21, loja 2, Arraial de Cabo. Telephone: +(55-22) 2622-5703.
Restaurante Flutuante – Literally called the “Floating Restaurant,” this eatery is located astride a beach can be reached by hiring a boat at the docks in Arrial do Cabo, about 40 kilometers from Búzios. Ingredients are fished right out of the ocean or pulled from cages where oysters and other sea critters are raised on the premises.
Poço das Antas Biological Reserve – About 80 kilometers from Búzios, the town of Silva Jardim is home to one of the best-known rainforest conservation initiatives in Brazil, the Golden Lion Tamarin Conservation Project. The reserve is one of the main remaining habitats for the little squirrel-sized money. Rio de Janeiro-based Brazil Ecotravel offers tours of the reserve, including a visit to the conservation project. Telephone: +(55-21) 2512-8882.
When To Go to Búzios
High Season – Trendy thirty-somethings descend on the town during the southern hemisphere summer, December-March. Brazilian families are common both then and during the July winter school break. Holiday weekends are busy throughout the year. Early reservations are highly recommended for Christmas, New Years, Carnaval, Easter and most three-day weekends.
Low Season – Weekdays between April and August. Some argue that the low season is the best time to visit. Prices are lower and things are less crazy and in general the weather is nice.
Shoulder Season – Things begin to heat up in the spring, September-November.
Average annual temperature is 25 C. Average highs are 29 C in the summer and 24 C in the winter. Average lows are 22 C and 19 C, respectively.
Getting to Búzios
Air – There are limited flights to the Cabo Frio Airport (CFB) in the neighboring city of Cabo Frio, including from São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires. Flight time from Rio de Janeiro is 30 minutes. The Brazilian airline Gol offers the most service.
Transfers from Rio de Janeiro – Many of the upscale hotels and pousadas offer transfer service from airports and hotels in Rio de Janeiro. Ask when you make your reservation.
Driving – Búzios is located 179 kilometers northeast of Rio de Janeiro. The drive can be made comfortably in less than two hours. The website Búzios Online contains detailed directions from Rio de Janeiro to Búzios in English. Rent a car in Brazil.
Bus – The bus company Viação 1001 offers several departures a day from the Novo Rio bus depot in Rio de Janeiro. It also offers once-a-week service from São Paulo.
Búzios Tips
Scout out the beaches – Each piece of sand is occupied by a different “tribe,” so sample a few to figure out where you fit in.
Aquataxis – The same fishermen who lead seaside day tours moonlight as “water taxis,” dropping tourists off at distant beaches for a reasonable fee.
Take a Nap – Nightlife goes late, so take a nap after returning from the beach in the afternoon.
Parking – If you drive, remember that downtown parking is scarce at night as the bars and clubs start heating up. As in many parts of Brazil, as you get out of your car you will probably be accosted by a freelance parking attendant who offers to “watch your car.” The best thing is to do is agree on a price beforehand but insist on paying when you leave. If you don’t pay the protection money, the guy might take revenge, but if you pay him in advance, he will likely to take the money and run, leaving your car unprotected.
Beachwear – Emulate what the Brazilians are wearing. At first that string bikini or those speedos might feel odd, but eventually you’ll get used to it and you’ll mix much better with the locals as a result.
More Information on Búzios
Búzios Online – a privately-run trilingual (Portuguese, English and Spanish) online guide to Búzios.
Armação dos Búzios - The official website of the municipality.
Buzios Hotel Association – the trilingual (Portuguese, English and Spanish) website of the local hotel owners group:
TurisRio – the official website of the Rio de Janeiro state tourism agency.
