Domingos Martins, Espírito Santo

We had already heard from our carioca friends that Vitória, Espírito Santo’s capital, and its neighbor, Vila Velha, combine to resemble a mini Rio. To a large extent, this is true when you consider their sweeping, crescent-shaped city beaches, accented with kiosks, tall buildings, and oddly shaped mountains that scrape the shoreline. However, the way we see it, Vitória needs more sophistication and more tall buildings before it can be compared to Rio. It was more like Copacabana Beach with a few teeth knocked out. Nonetheless, its lively weekend scene makes for a great place to kick off a long weekend in Espírito Santo.

One does not have to travel far beyond Vitória to experience the varying beauty of this state. Head 45 minutes west from Vitória, on BR-262, and you’ll find yourself in the Alps. Huh? At least, Domingos Martins might fool you. Settled in the mid-19th century by Italian and German immigrants - who brought with them their distinct architecture and food - you will find classic German chalet-style homes, restaurants, and hotels sprinkled throughout the mountainside. Except for the absence of snow, a few thousand feet of mountain elevation, and palm trees, you might swear that you are somewhere in Bavaria. The centerpiece of this region is Pedra Azul, the mile-high granite behemoth that resembles a cross between Yosemite’s Half Dome and Rio’s Sugar Loaf. Enhancing the effect of these beautiful mountains are cooler temperatures - many of the lodges offer suites with fireplaces! Now there’s something we hadn’t thought about since arriving in Brazil.

Pedra Azul, Campinho, and BR-262

It sticks out like a sore thumb, literally and figuratively. Pedra Azul (Blue Stone), a 5,976-foot/1,822-meter high, bald massif of granite, surges 3,300 feet/1,006 meters above the lush, mountainous Atlantic forest at the westernmost end of Domingos Martins. The extraordinary structure is enhanced by the various hues (blue, of course, being one of them) that are reflected off its glossy facade as the sun changes angles throughout the day. For this reason, don’t save your visit for a cloudy day. As if Blue Stone were not bizarre enough, it also has a curious granite protuberance that resembles a giant lizard scaling its wall.

Although we believe that a view from the distance of Pedra Azul will suffice, you can get a close-up by visiting the Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul (Pedra Azul State Park). From the visitor center, there is a moderately challenging three-hour hike that brings you in contact with the rocky face, interesting flora and fauna, spectacular views, and nine natural pools (you can swim in them, but don’t expect warm water). In the interest of safety, the summit trail has been closed since 1995. If you want a free, guided tour, you must book several days in advance with a ranger. The park is open Thursday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and costs about $3 to enter. For information, call 3248-1156.

Yes, the rock is awesome, but the town in which it sits is no “small pebble.” Located just 25 miles/40 kilometers west of Vitória, along the stunning mountainous Highway BR-262, Domingos Martins is actually the state’s largest town by area. Scattered throughout its 473 square miles/1,226 square kilometers is a population of just 26,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of German or Italian descent and have settled in the little village of Campinho. Campinho, a name often used interchangeably (and mistakenly) with Domingos Martins, is more interesting than attractive. However, with an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet/610 meters, cobblestone roads, German chalet-style homes, and restaurants serving bratwurst and sauerkraut, it is reminiscent of an alpine village. Even the people around here look different from those in other parts of Brazil. It is normal to come into contact with blond-haired, blue-eyed folks who speak both German and Portuguese.

Beyond Campinho and Pedra Azul, what truly makes Domingos Martins alluring is its unchallengeable beauty. As you carve through the exuberant, green mountains along BR-262, you witness a glorious scene - farms cut into steep hills, small waterfalls, gushing rivers that snake through the forest, patches of silver leaves that reflect the sun’s rays, and jordanhas trees that occasionally dye the green hillside with their purple flowers. Completing this portrait are the many peak-roofed chalets that dot the hills and valleys. Best of all, you are enveloped by fresh mountain air that usually ranges from 45 to 68 F (7 to 20 C), depending upon the time of year. Locals claim that Domingos Martins has the world’s third best climate, whatever that means.

WHERE TO STAY

Almost all of the lodging is located just off BR-262. There is a recurring theme of affordable German chalet-style pousadas and hotels, most of which are beautifully decorated with views of the hillside or of Pedra Azul. Many hotels don’t have air-conditioning, as the cool, refreshing mountain air does not call for it. Due in large part to the sprawling nature of the area, several hotels offer a Full American Plan. This is a nice deal, since it’s rather inconvenient to travel 8 miles/5 kilometers down a dark mountain road just for dinner. Our top “posh” choice is the Aroso Paço Hotel, and the best cheap option is Recanto da Pedra, at the foot of Pedra Azul. Note: The area is predominantly a weekend getaway. Thus, always reserve in advance to ensure that your hotel of choice is open.

The lodging options below are listed in order of most to least expensive, and then alphabetical within each category. Rates are given for the least expensive double-occupancy room and range from Not So Cheap, which is about $150/night, to Dirt Cheap, which is about $50/night. FAP stands for Full American Plan, meaning that full board is provided, and CP stands for Continental Plan, which includes continental breakfast only.

Aroso Paço Hotel - Rodovia BR-262, km 90, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: 55-27-3248-1147, Fax: 55-27-3248-1180, e-mail
Not So Cheap and up, FAP, Credit Cards Accepted, 48 rooms, English spoken
This gorgeous hotel, recognizable by its gray stone façade and white pillars, is situated in the mountains near Pedra Azul. Regal décor abounds - both the lobby and the common areas combine polished patterned marble with some of the most magnificent rich woodwork we have seen throughout Brazil. Extravagance is also seen in two heated pools. They are surrounded by a generous-size marble patio and several Greek marble columns, where there is a stellar view of Pedra Azul. Not surprisingly, the Aroso Paço is loaded with amenities, including three restaurants, two bars, a tea terrace (there’s something new), a wine cellar, a coffee shop, an inside and open-air function hall, two game rooms, a tennis court, a multisport court, a sauna, a whirlpool, and a forest reserve.
Guests have the option of staying in suites of various sizes and prices, yet all are very spacious, with sparkling wood floors, fancy lanais, and views of the mountains (only some have a view of Pedra Azul, but all views are worthy). The suites demonstrate dazzling woodwork in their furnishings (such as the end tables, headboards, and doors to the lanais). Baths have sparkling fixtures in a sea of gray marble. A phone, a TV, and a minibar are in each suite, yet there is no a/c (as we’ve mentioned, it is not a necessity). Aroso Paço is a great place to stay if one is looking for the ultimate in style and comfort. Some might not wish for such formal surroundings in a mountainous region, but believe us, it doesn’t suck.

Pousada Pedra Azul, Rodovia BR-262, km 88, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: 55-27-3137-3908 or reservations: 55-27-3200-3776, Fax: 55-27-3248-1201, e-mail
Not So Cheap, FAP, Credit Cards Accepted, 38 rooms, no English spoken
We like this pousada. Located at the entrance to the Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul, this wooden Brazilian colonial-style lodge, renovated in 2002, is comfortably nestled in the trees near the base of “The Rock.” At an elevation of 4,000 feet/1,220 meters, the grounds have nature trails, a lake and a 200-foot-high/60-meter-high waterfall. In keeping with its setting, Pousada Pedra Azul offers classes in mountain climbing and rappelling. It can also arrange nature walks and guided hikes - of various difficulties - through the state park. On the property are an adult pool, a children’s pool, a tennis court, a volleyball court, a health club (with massage, whirlpool, and sauna), a good restaurant and wine cellar, a bar, a pool bar, a living room, a reading room, a tearoom, a game room, a movie room, and a playground.
We love the location and the pousada’s interior design. Most of these rooms (even the convention room) have beautiful woodwork, gleaming hardwood floors, and vaulted ceilings. The two-room suites and the standard rooms are comfortable, spacious, and charming. The décor of each guest room varies, but the general idea is immaculately polished hardwood floors, white walls with wood trim, exposed brick, handmade wood furnishings, and floral bedspreads. The lanais have fabulous views, whether of Pedra Azul, the nearby waterfall, or the surrounding valley. All rooms have TV, phone, and minibar. A space heater is available upon request to take away the occasional night chill. Open from Friday through Monday and on holidays.

Eco da Floresta, Rodovia BR-262, km 96, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: and Fax: 55-27-3248-1196 or 1197, e-mail
Cheap and up, FAP, Credit Cards Accepted, 76 rooms, 6 chalets, English spoken
Eco da Floresta is another beauty. Though slightly less posh than the Aroso Paço, it is a great family spot, as it is loaded with outdoor recreational amenities. Located close to Pedra Azul, at an elevation of 3,893 feet/1,187 meters, this hotel offers wonderful vistas and an inspiring natural setting in which one can take advantage of many activities. The beautifully manicured grounds include a lake for kayaking, an ecological trail, several horseback-riding trails, a miniature zoo, and a small farm. Further options are a soccer field, tennis courts, a squash court, two outdoor pools, one heated indoor pool, an exercise room, a game room, and a sauna. (We get tired just thinking about all of these activities.) The hotel also has a restaurant, a piano bar, an events center, and even a library.
Guests can choose between a very large room and one of the hotel’s six chalets. All options have an excellent layout with comfortable furnishings, a fireplace, lanais, and great views. The décor is a charming combination of white walls with smart blue wood trim, clean carpet, and rich woodwork. Baths are a spiffy mix of white tile and gray marble. Rooms have TV, phone, minibar, and central air to control the a/c or heat (yes, you may need heat!). We loved Eco da Floresta for families or couples, whether they are looking for an active vacation or a relaxing vacation.

Pousada dos Pinhos, Rodovia BR-262, km 88, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: 55-27-3248-1109 or 1115, Fax: 55-27-3248-1283, e-mail
Cheap and up, CP, Credit Cards Accepted, 37 rooms, English spoken
OK, we keep talking about the Alpine look, but if ever we were to see the St. Pauli Girl, it would be here. The exterior of the main building is a four-story, white concrete structure with several red-peaked roofs and wood shutters. It’s as if the snow will just fall right off (snow?!). There are also several similar yet smaller chalets scattered throughout the property. The lobby and other interior common areas continue the ski-lodge theme with rich wood complemented by white walls and a splash of dark coloring. Some of the corridors even creaked a bit when we walked, as if to create the sound of people walking in ski boots. The hotel offers no ski trails, but there are several amenities such as two large pools, one of which is covered and heated, and the outdoor pool has a short Alpine slide. There is also a restaurant (with a wine cellar), a tennis court, a basketball court, a soccer field, and a game room.
Guests can stay in chalets or apartments. Chalets are nicely laid-out two-room suites with a fireplace but no lanai. The décor is simple (and somewhat less inspiring than many of the other hotels in this region), with wood floors, light-colored walls and dark woodwork. Apartments, which are slightly less expensive, also have wood floors and wood trim, but they are presented with a newer and sharper look (but they don’t have a fireplace). For our money, we prefer the apartments. Bathrooms are small but clean, with white tile. All rooms have TV, telephone, and minibar. Although many rooms offer good views, the hotel is set with its back to Pedra Azul, which therefore cannot be seen from any of the rooms. Regardless, we think dos Pinhos is a fine option.

Hotel Imperador, 275 Rua Duque de Caxias, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: and Fax: 55-27-3268-1115, e-mail
Dirt Cheap, CP, Credit Cards Accepted, 34 rooms, English spoken
This Bavarian-style, large white concrete building with red trim sits right in the village of Campinho. The Imperador (Emperor) is one of the region’s older and more known hotels; yet it has a somewhat antiquated, rather than a royal, feel. Many of the rooms are rather faded, with worn green carpets and outdated bathrooms. Some rooms present an improvement, as they have attractive hardwood floors and full wooden bed frames to complement bright white walls. Though generally uninspiring, the rooms are of adequate size and have TV, minibar, and ceiling fan (but no phone). Very few rooms (or other parts of the hotel, for that matter) offer decent views. This is not the hotel of choice for those in search of vistas.
Although we place the Imperador at the bottom of our list, it does have some redeeming qualities. The grounds are nicely manicured, with attractive vegetation and a few walking trails that meander past a brook and a pond (where fishing is allowed). The pool is unexciting but big enough. The restaurant offers very good cuisine, but it is generally open only for large groups and special events. The Imperador is a well-respected establishment, yet we much prefer to stay in mountains and fresh air, especially when we actually get an upgrade in comfort.

Pousada Peterle, Rodovia BR-262, km 88, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: 55-27-3248-1243 or 1411, Fax: 55-27-3248-1171, e-mail
Dirt Cheap and up, CP, Credit Cards Accepted, 7 rooms, and 7 chalets, English spoken
We loved the authentic German Alpine look and feel of these two-level chalets that are located not far from the entrance to Parque Estadual de Pedra Azul (Pedra Azul State Park). The exterior of each has a gray-stone first level, and a log cabin–style second floor. Dark-red windowpanes complete the picture. Note that the pousada calls first-floor lodging “apartments” and second-floor lodging “chalets,” for which guests pay about $20 a night extra. However, each is of equal size, has two rooms, and offers great views, so spending the extra cash isn’t necessary. The interiors of the chalets and the apartments have meticulously cared-for wood and tile floors along with dark wood-paneled walls. All guest rooms are supersize, with fireplaces and huge lanais. Despite their large size, the rooms still maintain a coziness that most people crave from a log cabin. Rooms have TV, phone, and minibar, but no a/c. Baths are sparkling white tile with marble sinks. Since the rooms have plenty of space for more than two adults, there is an additional charge of about $20 a night per extra person. However, there is no charge for children under six. There is no pool or restaurant, but the petite breakfast cafe is a great spot to start one’s day.

Pousada Vista Linda, BR-262, km 35, Santa Izabel, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone: 55-27-3268-1323
Dirt Cheap, CP, Credit Cards Accepted, 8 rooms and 5 chalets, English spoken
Vista Linda (Beautiful View) is just that. It’s one of the first pousadas you encounter upon entering the eastern mountains of Domingos Martins, and even if you don’t stay here, you should stop off at the observatory to take a whiff of the fresh mountain air and the spectacular view. At 1,541 feet/470 meters high, it’s a great way to set the tone for this region. Just as important, this pousada is a truly delightful lodging option. Styled to resemble a perfectly primped tiny Alpine village with a colorful interconnected stucco facade, the grounds include a man-made pond with a small walking bridge, a gift shop, a charming restaurant, and a tiny theater.
Rooms are cheery and comfortable with terra-cotta floors, white walls, and polished woodwork. Baths are small but shiny and new, with white tile and a marble sink. As with every other part of this pousada, the rooms offer super views (but they are not in view of Pedra Azul). Each has a lanai, a TV, a phone, and a ceiling fan.

Recanto da Pedra, Rodovia BR-262, km 88, Pedra Azul, Domingos Martins, ES, Brazil. Telephone/Fax: 55-27-3248-1355
Dirt Cheap, CP, Credit Cards Accepted, 12 rooms, no English spoken
Location, location, location - right at the foot of Pedra Azul. Clearly, the views are outstanding from every part of this three-floor white concrete Bavarian-style pousada. However, Recanto da Pedra does not rest on the laurels of its picturesque setting. The hotel is in immaculate condition - its excellent guest rooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable, with white tile floors and simple but pleasing woodwork. Lanais appear to extend right out onto Pedra Azul. Baths have clean white tile that is complemented by black marble. Rooms have TV and minibar, but no a/c or phone.
The pousada’s interior has attractive coloring with terra-cotta floors, beige walls, and wood tones. It has a cheerful ambiance in which guests can eat breakfast, relax with a drink, or just breathe in the mountain air from the veranda. Other than that, Recanto da Pedra is not about amenities. The pool is not large but features a cobblestone sliding board for aesthetic appeal (we assume that it could not possibly be for use!). There is also a restaurant, a bar, a sauna, and a game room. This is a great place to stay for those who just want to soak in the beauty of this region.

WHERE TO EAT

Dining in Domingos Martins is nothing special; however, it certainly is inexpensive. There are a few restaurants, spread out over a long stretch of BR-262, many of which are open only on weekends and holidays, so check before arrival. Although you have the option of seafood, meat, and typical Brazilian and German restaurants, most people eat in their hotels. The best overall restaurant is Restaurante Lusitania, which specializes in Portuguese cuisine. However, as long as you’re in Domingos Martins, you might as well try some German food and head for Bigosch. $ means $10 or less per person and $$ signifies $11-20 person. (Listings are in alphabetical order.)

$ Adega Alemã Schwambach, Rodovia João Ricardo Schorling, km 15, 3268-1427
This little red-brick hut is “just” a wine and cheese shop located halfway between Campinho and Pedra Azul. Here, one can sample Brazil’s best (really, people say this is the country’s best) wine and liqueur - and they are all made on the premises. Adega has a comfortable interior of exposed brick, wood, and tasteful table settings at which customers can relax and enjoy the “tastings.” Good pizza is available for those looking for more than a nibble and a drink. We highly recommend a brief visit.

$ Bigosch, 50 Lad. Francisco dos Santos Silva, 3268-3169
Located in Campinho, this simple restaurant (and store) offers authentic German cuisine of pork, bratwurst, and the like. White stone floors and dark beams complement the flowered curtains in a warm and welcoming little space. Although we’re not big on German cuisine, the food is very good here, and it certainly is a break from what you’ve been eating in other parts of Brazil. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., including holidays.

$ Café da Roça/Café Colonial, Rodovia BR-262, km 87, 3248-1300
Nestled in the heart of the hills and valleys near Pedra Azul, this charming hut is one of those places that you like to pretend you discovered. It offers very inexpensive self-serve Brazilian cuisine (meat, chicken, feijoada) with every type of bread, cheese, pie, and other dessert imaginable. Upon observing how overwhelmed we were with the abundance of pastry options, the owner requested that we taste several treats for free. That’s the type of place this is. Feel free to sit out on the deck overlooking the countryside or inside Café da Roca’s perky yellow stucco walls. Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and holidays.

$ Caminho do Imigrante, 155 Rua João Batista Wernersbach, 3268-1137
This popular spot is situated in Campinho’s version of a “pedestrian mall.” It offers Brazilian churrasco-style cuisine, including meat, feijoada, and comida mineira (food from Minas Gerais). There is a lunchtime pay-per-kilo option, and at night diners order from a menu. The atmosphere is simple, yet the stone floors, yellow stucco walls, and wood posts add character to the indoor-outdoor setting.

$$ Restaurante Lusitânia, Rodovia BR-262, km 90, 3248-1184
This is one of the region’s more fancy and expensive restaurants. It specializes in Portuguese cuisine, most specifically bacalhau, and a few meat and chicken dishes. The indoor-outdoor décor combines a marble floor, orange brick walls, and light-colored stone pillars along with a dark wood ceiling and beams. There is often live Portuguese music at nights. The setting is enhanced by a great view of the mountains. For restless children, there is a playground in plain sight of the dinner tables. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., including holidays.

$ Valsugana, Rodovia BR-262, km 89.5, 3248-1126.
In a peaceful setting near Pedra Azul, Valsugana serves basic yet delicious Italian cuisine (no pizza). The exterior is distinguishable by its steeply pitched, chalet-style red roof. There is a veranda, and the inside décor combines a shiny wood floor, peach stucco walls, and a fireplace. The view from inside and outside is wonderful. Open for lunch and dinner, and after 7 p.m. you can try some of its great fondues.

GOING OUT

Domingos Martins is not a hot spot for nightlife. The purpose of being here is to experience the natural beauty of the interior. Excitement is an afterthought. So fuhgeddaboudit.

DON’T MISS

Adega Alemã Schwambach
See the description of this cozy wine and cheese shop in “Where to Eat.”

View from Pousada Vista Linda
At 1,541 feet/470 meters, the Vista Linda’s observatory offers the first great view as you enter the Domingos Martins region, so why not start off with a bang? See description in “Where to Stay.”

Pedra Azul
This 5,976-foot/1,822-meter-high bald granite dome is the region’s main attraction. Surging 3,300 feet/1,006 meter above the rolling verdant Atlantic forest in western Domingos Martins, Blue Stone is enhanced by the various hues (blue, of course, being one of them) that are reflected off of its glossy façade as the sun changes angles throughout the day. Take full advantage of the sun’s action against the rock; don’t save your visit for a cloudy day.

The drive from Vitória to Domingos Martins along BR-262
Even if you never get out of your car and just blast through here in one day, it will be a drive to remember. The best part is that it’s not a difficult road to negotiate, and there is a completely different vista around every corner.

* Adapted and excerpted from Rum & Reggae’s Brazil (Rum & Reggae Guidebooks, December 2005). Copyright 2005. All rights reserved; do not reproduce without written permission from the publisher.

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